Summer on the Inside

Polyurethane foam reinvented surfboard manufacturing, but it wasn’t the sport’s greatest midcentury technological development. The world’s best board, after all, wasn’t much good to a surfer standing on a winter beach palsied with cold. On a lot of days, in a lot of places, this was the inevitable coda to each and every wave-riding session. Yes, polyurethane foam was a modern wonder. But the surfing wetsuit? That was a godsend.

In yet another case of better surfing through war-related petroch...

Yes, the polyurethane foam board was a modern wonder. But the surfing wetsuit? That was a godsend.