Chapter 5:
Barefoot Revolution
Revolution is not a Dinner Party/
The Tao of George/
Getting Slippery with Bob McTavish/
Bismarck with a Tan/
Plastic Machine/
Enlightenment at Honolua Bay/
Panic on the Showroom Floor/
Style Takes a Dive/
Everybody Must Get Stoned/
Surfer Goes Electrical Bananas/
No Contest/
There Will be Slaps/
Kook Straps, Cadillacs, and Sex Wax/
Blame it on the Boogie/
Country Soul/
Higher and Brighter with Alby Falzon/
Fresh Blood on the Newsstand/
Long Road to Bells Beach/
Speed Freaks/
Gods of Thunder/
The Rubberman Cometh/
The Impossible Wave/
Into the Vortex/
Gerry Lopez, Pipeline Firewalker/
Enlightenment at Honolua Bay
For the most part, Hawaii didn’t get involved in the verbal shoving match between California and Australia, immediately after the 1966 World Championships. Jock Sutherland of Haleiwa had placed runner-up to Nat Young in San Diego, and earned his fellow islanders a nice piece of competition glory. Except they didn’t really need or want it—at least not the way the Aussies and US mainlanders did. Hawaii had a different ranking system. Outperforming the beachbreak heroes in San Diego or Sydney wa...
By 1967, Dick Brewer, a former machinist and hot-rodder from Long Beach, was a boardmaking holy man inspiring cult-like devotion among many of the world’s best surfers. In a pre-ironic age, he was known as the Guru.