For the most part, Hawaii didn’t get involved in the verbal shoving match between California and Australia, immediately after the 1966 World Championships. Jock Sutherland of Haleiwa had placed runner-up to Nat Young in San Diego, and earned his fellow islanders a nice piece of competition glory. Except they didn’t really need or want it—at least not the way the Aussies and US mainlanders did. Hawaii had a different ranking system. Outperforming the beachbreak heroes in San Diego or Sydney wa...
Chapter 5:
Barefoot Revolution
- Revolution is not a Dinner Party /
- The Tao of George /
- Getting Slippery with Bob McTavish /
- Bismarck with a Tan /
- Plastic Machine /
- Enlightenment at Honolua Bay /
- Panic on the Showroom Floor /
- Style Takes a Dive /
- Everybody Must Get Stoned /
- Surfer Goes Electrical Bananas /
- No Contest /
- There Will be Slaps /
- Kook Straps, Cadillacs, and Sex Wax /
- Blame it on the Boogie /
- Country Soul /
- Higher and Brighter with Alby Falzon /
- Fresh Blood on the Newsstand /
- Long Road to Bells Beach /
- Speed Freaks /
- Gods of Thunder /
- The Rubberman Cometh /
- The Impossible Wave /
- Into the Vortex /
- Gerry Lopez, Pipeline Firewalker /
Enlightenment at Honolua Bay
By 1967, Dick Brewer, a former machinist and hot-rodder from Long Beach, was a boardmaking holy man inspiring cult-like devotion among many of the world’s best surfers. In a pre-ironic age, he was known as the Guru.