Santa Barbara, 1981
I’ll just drive to find something. In just one summer I put something like 30,000 miles on my car
“Conversations: Davey Smith,” by Dave Gilovich, ran the September 1981 issue of Surfing magazine. This version has been slightly shortened and edited.
* * *
Was Rincon breaking at all today?
Nah, not at all.
Where do you surf when it’s small like that; when the points aren’t breaking?
There’s a place called Sands. That’s where we surfed tonight. It picks up the windswell really good—if the tar’s not too thick. The tar from the oil platforms sometimes just gets radical out there.
I imagine ...