Dana Point, California, 1978
"Sex and tube rides!"
“Interview: Mark Richards,” uncredited, ran in the July 1978 issue of SURFER. This version is shortened and lightly edited.
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How do you perceive the current state of the art of surfing?
It’s definitely becoming more maneuver oriented. There was an era of cruising, and it seems that era is past. The average board last year was 6’8″x 19″, this year its 6’4″ x 20″. For a while we got lost in a “flow with it” era, where it was cool to ride a narrow board straight down the line. It was d...