While Freeth spread the surfing gospel in California, Waikiki became packed with true believers. By 1910, the huge aquamarine field of surf breaks spread out between Honolulu Harbor and Diamond Head had been mapped and named, starting with the nearshore spots like Queen’s Surf and Canoes, moving on to Cunha Surf, Public Baths, and Papa Nui, and then out to Castle Break, Waikiki’s most distant surfing reef, located a glittering half-mile offshore. The era’s heavy wooden boards required a part...
Chapter 2:
Gliding Return
- A Fine Little Revival /
- Jack London Loves Purple /
- California: The New Frontier /
- Beachboy Life /
- Duke Kahanamoku /
- Surf Shooting Down Under /
- The Bronzed Islander Shows How /
- Surfing in the Jazz Age /
- Tom Blake Redesigns the Sport /
- What Depression? /
- When Clubbies Ruled Australia /
- Surfboard as Woodcraft /
- Palos Verdes Surf Club /
- San Onofre: the Nearest Faraway Place /
- Riding the Hot Curl /
- Enter Makaha /
- Death at Waimea /
- The Overwhelming North Shore /
