The Tao of George

Near the beginning of Endless Summer, a Santa Barbara kneeboarder named George Greenough rides one of the finest-looking waves in the picture—a small but incredibly long peeler at a break called Sandspit. Filmmaker Bruce Brown offered the wave as a kind of novelty (“a short board and a long ride”) and moved on. Brown didn’t know it at the time, but what he'd captured at Sandspit was the shortboard revolution in its prenatal stage.

Greenough was both an inspiration and architect for the upcomi...