Carson, Lance

Boisterous pointbreak specialist from Pacific Palisades, California; best known for his noseriding and deep-set turns at Malibu in the late '50s and '60s. "He was the best surfer there," Hollywood director/screenwriter and former Malibu surfer John Milius said in 1999. "He read the waves better, never made a mistake, and only fell off deliberately at the end of a ride . . . or if he was drunk."

Lance Carson was born (1943) in Santa Monica, California, and raised in nearby Pacific Palisades. ...