There were still a few challenging surf spots waiting to be discovered along the sparkling four-mile necklace of reefs between Diamond Head and Honolulu Harbor, and this allowed Waikiki to remain a force in contemporary surfing (unlike California’s San Onofre) during the 1950s. But the real Waikiki, the soft-lit beachfront of song and story—Queen’s Surf and Canoes and the rest of the interlocked breaks in front of the Moana and the Royal Hawaiian; crossroads for Duke Kahanamoku and Jack Londo...
Chapter 3:
Malibu Swing
- Freezing the Moment with Doc Ball /
- A Touch of Glamour /
- Bob Simmons, Gnarled Genius /
- Darrylin, Oh Darrylin /
- The Magic Wave /
- Velzy's Pig /
- Dewey Weber, Hotdog Jesus /
- Tubesteak Abides /
- A Rebel for All Seasons /
- The Valley Cometh /
- Hawaii Calls /
- Rocket to Makaha /
- Buzzy Trent, King of Beasts /
- Surfing's Beat Generation /
- France and Peru Join In /
- A Restart for Australia /
- A Farewell to Clubs /
- Bud Browne Presents /
- Point Surf '58 /
- The Viking King of Mead Hall /
- An Exorcism at Waimea /
Rocket to Makaha
George Downing was 14 when he reshaped an old redwood plank into a sleek hot curl he named “Pepe.” Whittling his new craft into existence, Downing collected the shavings in a pair of burlap potato sacks, which he occasionally slept on.